Gucci grandly launches the Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition. This cutting-edge exhibition presents the most classic and timeless designs since the brand was founded 102 years ago. This global touring exhibition kicked off in Shanghai in April and arrived in London in October, bringing an immersive and interesting experience to 180 Studios located at 180 The Strand. To pay tribute to Gucci’s deep connection with the British capital, the Gucci Cosmos collection travels through the brand’s history, paying tribute to Gucci’s origins in Florence and paying tribute to the brand’s endless creativity. < p>
The indissoluble bond between Gucci and London began in 1897. Whe young Guccio Gucci was working as a bellman and elevator boy at London’s legendary The Savoy hotel. As a teenager, Mr. Guccio carried guests' luggage through the famous revolving door and operated the elevator to the guest rooms and suites. He had close contact with the exquisite tastes and lifestyles of elites from all over the world, creatively absorbing novel ideas, broad horizons, and broad cultural concepts. Inspired by these experiences, Mr. Guccio came up with the vision of making his name synonymous with luggage making skills, so he returned to Florence and founded his eponymous leather goods workshop in 1921, which he later opened in the city's Via Nuova. della Vigna Nuova) opens the first Gucci store. The Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition explores how Gucci’s enduring spirit and logo have derived its most classic designs over the past century, and also explores how these era-defining classics bring inexhaustible inspiration to the brand’s creative vision. , and give it new interpretations in different eras. This exhibition demonstrates Gucci’s unswerving insistence on creativity. This inheritance rooted in Italy’s most exquisite craftsmanship and tradition promotes contemporary life and fashion aesthetics, reflecting and defining the spirit of the times.
The Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition was conceived and designed by the famous British contemporary artist Es Devlin, and directed by the outstanding Italian fashion theorist and critic Maria Luisa Fulisa. Curated by Luisa Frisa. Looking back at the past and reflecting on the present, and looking to the future, this playful collection journey is composed of a series of exhibition "spaces", including many precious collections that have not been made public-these collections come from the Gucci Archive, formerly built in The 15th-century Palazzo Settimanni in Florence is both a vivid archive of the brand’s collections and the work center of the brand’s creative team. Each “space” showcases a different facet of Gucci. From the original ambition of founder Mr. Guccio Gucci, to the pioneering spirit of his sons Aldo Gucci and Rodolfo Gucci, to the creative director Tom Ford in recent years Ford), Frida Giannini (Frida Giannini), Alessandro Michele (Alessandro Michele) and the new creative director Sabato De Sarno (Sabato De Sarno)’s unbridled imagination, presented from Since its founding in 1921, Gucci has never wavered in its principles and constantly innovated inspiration and creativity.
Ace Devlin: "Gucci is committed to creative experimentation and expression of the times. Through continuous advancement and evolution, it reflects the brand and its history over the past hundred years. Broadly speaking, this demonstrates Gucci's extended self-awareness and renewal. The ability of cognitive transformation. Just as the clothing itself can be changed and re-tailored, the skin after transformation will also continue to be reborn. For this London exhibition, I wanted to explore the important influence of this city on Gucci’s continuous evolution, such as the young How Mr. Guccio Gucci was so impressed by the exquisite attire and luggage of the guests as he escorted them up and down the red-painted elevator at the Savoy Hotel.”
Maria Luisa Fulisa: "Gucci Cosmos opened in Shanghai as an exhibition and is now touring to London. This project is extraordinary for me. I can travel through the Gucci universe again and through constant Changing clothing, objects, elements, and characters tell its stories, which has made Gucci an iconic pioneer in fashion and collective visual culture for more than a century. Organizing exhibitions based on different sites and urban atmospheres is an The challenge, therefore, was to think about the deep connection between London and fashion and to reposition the relationship between the different elements and the selected exhibits. Gucci Cosmos is an immersive experience in which In the process, Gucci’s origin story and development history will continue to be verified by future imagination.”
For the Gucci Cosmos "Glory Gucci" collection exhibition in London, Ace Devlin explored more deeplyGucci’s long-standing connection with the British capital (her hometown) is discussed, adapting the exhibition design to a site-specific experience. Blending creative sound, visual and motion techniques, she uses Mr. Gucci's experiences at the Savoy Hotel, just 500 meters away from The Strand 180, as a starting point to further explore this key period in the brand's origins, in the exhibition setting Using the orbit in space as a visual metaphor, it conveys the brand's long-lasting concept and explains how Gucci creates countless far-reaching echoes and resonances through classic design, infinite creativity and craftsmanship, and even broad social reach.
Before London, Mr. Guccio Gucci founded a handmade travel products workshop in Florence, his birthplace. Gucci Cosmos brings the architectural elements of the Tuscan capital to the streets of London. The “Temple of the Sky” is connected to the first floor and exterior wall of The Strand 108. It stands on a red and green background and consists of two mutually inverted reliefs, replicating the image of the architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Brunelleschi designed the innovative circular dome for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence in the 15th century.< p>
The Gucci x The Savoy Lobby
The Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition in London recreates the lobby of the Savoy Hotel where Mr. Gucci worked at the end of the 19th century, including the iconic black and white marble floor and fashionable lamps and furniture. The lobby entrance recreates an inspiring moment from the hotel's opening that inspired London's modern history. There is a cafe and comfortable seating area inside.Decorated with vintage wallpaper, it offers red drinks and snacks and has a special access to 108 The Strand.
The Ascending Room
Viewers need to take a large elevator before entering the main exhibition space. This breathtaking elevator replicates the famous red elevator of the Savoy Hotel in the past. It was the first electric elevator in London and was put into use in 1889. Affectionately known as the "Ascending Ladder". Mr. Guccio often uses the elevator when carrying guests' luggage to and from their rooms. This replica in the Gucci Cosmos collection features the same all-red interior as the original, taking viewers on a journey of light and shadow, telling how this seven-minute journey up and down the hotel inspired one day The story of the establishment of a handmade luggage workshop.< p>
Viewers leave the 19th-century "ascending staircase" and return to the modern, simple white space. From the stairs down, they enter the "Transfer Station", the first space of the Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition. "Transmission Station" continues the story of the brand's founder, Mr. Guccio Gucci, showing the continued impact on the brand of his experience as a bellboy at the Savoy Hotel in London when he was young. The "Transfer Station" consists of three all-white interlocking circular installation spaces, connected by several revolving doors, which seem to be a tribute to the entrance of the Savoy Hotel. The space features three moving endless luggage carousels, carrying some of Gucci’s most exquisite luggage designs in decades, including one of the original iconic luggage pieces designed by Mr. Guccio in the late 1920s and other travel luggage. Accessories, a hand luggage in Double G printed canvas designed by Aldo Gucci in the 1960s as a tribute to his father, and a Disney printed luggage from the Epilogue collection, designed by Alessandro Michele in 2020 , showing the clever fusion of fashion and pop culture. "Teleport Station"The main space and its mirrored ceiling, with its rotating displays and soundtrack of ticking clocks and the names of different cities around the world, embodies the exchange of design knowledge, creativity and inspiration between successive creative directors, showing how they Excavating and reshaping the soul of the brand, thereby conveying Gucci’s unchanging contemporary attributes. The two smaller adjacent spaces in the main space of the “Transfer Station” also have multiple “Gucci Time Realm” multimedia perspective landscapes, which are placed in different Inside the Gucci luggage, inspiration comes from Gucci’s cultural icons from the past and present, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Princess Grace of Monaco and Diana, Princess of Wales, and then pays homage to the film “La Dolce Vita” "(la-dolce-vita) depicts Rome and its era of gathering of international celebrities and Hollywood stars. After leaving the "Transmission Station", viewers will see Aldo Gucci's tribute to his father in the 1960s The evolution of the Double G logo since its inception.< p>
For a long time, Gucci has continued to draw design inspiration from the equestrian field, and "Riding Ground" profoundly tells the connection between Gucci and equestrian culture. Its circular space is dotted with immersive large-scale screens, showing image fragments in memory. Accompanied by rhythmic galloping sound effects, words inspired by equestrian galloping echo the beat and are recited in the form of narration. Several collections illustrate how Gucci's equestrian logo has inspired endless imagination for the brand over the years - for example, Aldo Gucci incorporated the horsebit innovation into the classic loafer in 1953 and it became The brand's iconic elements, as well as the classic green, red and green striped webbing (Web) inspired by horse girdle. Entering this space, you can take a look at the history of the horsebit, from its official debut on loafers in the early 1960s, to belts in the 1960s, wool suede maxi dresses in the 1970s, and new launches. A platform loafer, worn with the rare leather jacket and culottes decorated with webbing from Sabato de Sarno's debut Spring/Summer 2024 collection. "Chichengdi" also reflects the brand's successive creations in recent years.How the director subtly subverted the traditional aristocratic temperament of equestrianism, including the riding crop designed by Tom Ford and the horsebit black leather corset designed by Alessandro Michele.< p>
The "Garden of Eden" space in the collection exhibition vividly interprets the story of Flora, the goddess of flowers, and presents an exquisite and delicate natural scenery picture created in 1966. In 1966, Rudolf Gucci commissioned Italian artist and illustrator Vittorio Accornero de Testa to create a silk scarf for Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco, which laid the foundation for Gucci’s 1981 ready-to-wear collection. Officially launched at the Sala Bianca in the Palazzo Pitti in Florence, it later also became the designer of Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, Alessandro Michele and Sabato de Sal Nuo's light of inspiration ignited their artistic talents. In the "Garden of Eden", a bright and mirrored circular space, viewers feel as if they are under the dome of a Florentine palace. The floral and insect installations in Aconello's designs are magnified and brought to life, symbolizing Gucci's long-standing connection with the beauty and diversity of the natural world. These works are hung above important exhibits, revealing the continuous inspiration of Flora's floral pattern on the Gucci archives. From the gorgeous Flora floral silk mini skirt in 1969, to the floral dress created by Frida Giannini for the Gucci Flora perfume campaign in 2008, to the Alessandro Michele-designed dress with the motto "Obsession" L'Aveugle Par Amour's iconic embroidered wool-lined denim jacket, Tom Ford's floral Jackie bag from the Spring/Summer 1999 collection, and a range of silk scarves and fabric bags reflect this elegance. How patterns are put to good use, reinterpreted and blended to create new charms. In "Garden of Eden," viewers can hear the sounds of brush strokes and water drops, as well as the sound of reciting all the different colors in Flora's floral pattern, as if Aconeiro was muttering to himself as he painted.
Leaving the vibrant "Eden Garden", you are greeted by a pair of giant white statues that are ten meters high suspended above the ground. On the statue, which is like a blank canvas, images of Gucci's iconic men's and women's suits from the past to the present are projected cyclically, symbolizing Gucci's pioneering concept of unisex fashion and its ability to change social concepts and behaviors. These include the famous red velvet suit designed by Tom Ford in 1996, the waist-cinched plaid suit designed by Frida Gianniani, and works by Alessandro Michele, such as the eye-catching pattern launched in 2016 Unisex suit with one of the suits from the 2022 "Twinsburg" collection. As the costumes on the statue change, a vast expanse of sky is projected into the space, while the accompaniment is a poem written and recited by Ace Devlin that explores the concept of the body as a community.< p>
Enter the Archives and discover the origins of Gucci’s most iconic handbags. In this stunning space, a mirrored ceiling creates a sense of immensity. The labyrinth of corridors is reminiscent of the Gucci Archives home in Florence, with numerous display cabinets and drawers lining the walls. A collection of historical handbags stored in the "Archives" includes five brand classics with a modern feel: Gucci Bamboo 1947, Jackie 1961, Gucci Horsebit 1955, Gucci Diana and Dionysus handbags. Also included is a rare colorful vertical striped hemp from the 1960sa 1990s bamboo bag in leather; and an early Jackie bag with its iconic push-down buckle and striped webbing, as well as a late 1970s reinterpretation of the Double G pattern. shape. Also on display is a red leather bamboo handle tote bag born in the early 1990s, which is the Gucci Diana prototype handbag reinterpreted by Alessandro Michele in 2020. In addition, there are two handbags with the Double G logo: one is a black leather bag from the early 1970s, with its iconic circular interlocking Double G pattern, which became the Gucci Blondie handbag that debuted in 2021 design inspiration; the other is the white quilted leather GG Marmont handbag created by Alessandro Michele and debuted in 2016. Finally, there are the handbags designed by Sabato de Sarno for the 2024 spring and summer series, including the Jackie Notte bucket bag with hook buckle and striped webbing, and the patent leather Bamboo 1947 handbag, both in the new iconic Rosso Ancora deep red color. Next to the display cabinet, viewers can appreciate Vittorio Aconello's reproduction manuscript for silk scarf printing, the craftsman's technical files and manuscripts, and the collection of advertising posters from the drawers, continuing the exploration in the "Collection Hall". trip.< p>
Cabinet of Wonders
In the center of the circular "curio house" sits a rotating physical treasure pavilion. This stunning three-meter-high cube, painted in deep red lacquer, houses multiple drawers and compartments that slide like a mechanism. An eclectic range of clothing, accessories and antiques are showcased throughout the space, accompanied by a sound installation that repeats in the background. It represents the full spectrum of Gucci’s design lineage, from the black leather bustier from Tom Ford’s 2001 collection to the gold evening gown by Frida Giannini in 2006, in GG velvet with metal and rhinestone handles. Bags, as well as punk bags, to Alessandro Michele’s ball-shaped leather bag with spiked rivets in 2018; and Sabato de Sarno’s Jackie Notte bag in 2023; while Also on display is an extraordinary collection of jewelry spanning more than 60 years, including Sabato deSarno’s new Marina Chain collection is inspired by the iconic archival style of the late 1960s; as well as a range of animal-shaped metalwork from the 1970s inspired by British country life, and the Tom Ford era Electric guitar; also showcases Harry Styles' look at Coachella 2022 and Sinéad Burke's outfit on the Met Gala red carpet , and a stage look inspired by Sir Elton John, later reinterpreted by Alessandro Michele as a metallic bomber jacket in his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. As a symbol of Gucci’s core of freedom, the “House of Curiosities” witnesses Gucci turning its wild imagination into aesthetic inspiration and boldly following its heart.< p>
Coming to the "Inspiration Gallery", a queue of 25 humanoid models, dressed in Gucci clothing from the 1970s to the present, was constantly moving on the T stage like fashion models. Clothing from past seasons' collections has been carefully arranged - not in chronological order, but in a reorganization of color and design inspirations. The "Inspiration Gallery" opens up creative connections across time and space, emphasizing Gucci's dialogue between tradition and modernity, demonstrating Gucci's enduring values, historical heritage, modernity, and the fundamental brand philosophy that fashion can Promote aesthetic and social change. A 1970s silk shirt and skirt with a “block G” pattern complement the trompe-l’oeil ribbon pattern on an elegant and playful wool coat by Alessandro Michele in 2016; Frida Kahlo in 2012 Giannini’s embroidered fringed skirt complements the hedonistic and seductive allure of Tom Ford’s 1996 unisex suit. These countless conversations echo three looks from Sabato de Sarno’s debut Spring/Summer 2024 collection: bold coats, crystal-embellished details and new signature Rosso Ancora red leather pieces. While cycling through clothing looks, Nuria Boj, Alexis Deacon,Four British artists including Joshua Donkor and Steve Harrison, as well as Chinese artists such as Ni Chuanjing, Zhang Wenqi, Jianmeitang (Li Jianmei) and Curry Beef were invited to create illustrations (originally created for the Shanghai exhibition) and gathered here to form a collection of paintings. It further strengthens creative exchanges between different regions.< p>
The “Gucci Ancora” space is inspired by creative director Sabato de Sarno’s debut collection and fashion show. The space is entirely finished in the new signature red color of Rosso Ancora, with a translucent parallelepiped structure at the center and mirrored screens in the interior. A series of personal memories, phrases and other fragments in Italian and English are projected onto these translucent walls, with words appearing and disappearing without a trace, throughout the space, which is decorated with text by Ace Devlin and Sabato Video and background sound installation with voices by De Sarno. In order to highlight the aesthetic core of the space that combines art installations with poetry and stories, "Gucci Ancora" (ancora is an Italian word meaning "now, again") appears on the outer walls covered with translucent cards. , engraved with a single word that viewers can move to create their own composition.< p>
The Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition is an experimental incarnation of the Gucci spirit. From its origins in London to its founding in Florence in the 19th century, it has now developed outstandingly on a global scale. This is a tribute to the brand’s most iconic designs, logos and creations, as well as a tribute to the outstanding skills of designers and craftsmen. Gucci since 1921Since Mr. O. Gucci founded the brand, Gucci has always adhered to its top position in creativity and Italian craftsmanship, and is committed to showing true luxury quality, iconic design and unlimited creativity that can shape the future.
The Gucci Cosmos collection exhibition will be presented at 180 Studios, No. 108 The Strand, London, UK from October 11 to December 31, 2023.
Signature and acknowledgment
Exhibition concept and design: Es Devlin
Curator: Maria Luisa Frisa
Video & Audio Content
Creative Director: Polina Zakharova
Producer: Sveta Yermolayeva
Production: Hard Feelings Studio
Sound Design/Composer: Monoleak
Lighting Design: Bruno Poet
Ascending Room The Ascending Room
Audio content: Polyphonia
Inspiration Gallery Carousel
Artwork Curator: Polina Zakharova & Hard Feelings Studios
Artists: Nuria Boj, Alexis Deacon, Joshua Donkor, Steve Harrison, Li Jianmei, Victo Ngai, Peter Zhang (Curry Beef), Vikki Zhang Zhang Wenqi)
Gucci Ancora Room
Creative concept: Sabato De Sarno and Francesco Mari
Design: Es Devlin
Video Art: Luke Hall
Audio content: Polyphonia
Wall Poetry: Yannis Ritsos “What to Do with the Stars”
© Crocetti editore, 2021. Italian translation by Nicola Crocetti.
Creative project management: Beniamino Marini
Creative executive producer & production: LarMac PROJECTS
"Duomo" picture courtesy Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
Special thanks to 180 Studios at 108 The Strand for supporting the exhibition display.